Where is everyone?


I see kids everyday;

I see teenagers everyday;

I see people over 30’s everyday;

But I don´t see the people of my age… ever.

In Portugal we usually hang around in groups of friends. In Hohoe I haven´t seen any… Not in the bars, not in the streets, nowhere.

Where is everyone?!


31/07/2012

Funerals


Yesterday (Friday) I noticed quite a lot of movement in one of the houses close to the one I’m living in.




Those tents are usually not there. There were a lot of people walking around and they sounded quite busy.

In the afternoon I was taking a nap when I woke up with the sound of African music: the funeral had started!

Funerals in Ghana are quite a big event. They start on Friday and last the entire weekend. The mood is not at all what I’m used to in a funeral. Here there is music all the time. When I say all the time is literally all the time. Since Friday afternoon the drums and the African music hasn´t stopped; not even at night!

When a person dies his/her body is kept in a fridge for months or sometimes years. While the body is there the family has the time to set up the funeral. If the house does not have the necessary conditions to host a funeral then the family will paint it or do whatever it takes to get those conditions; if the direct family does not have money then there is always someone in the family (a cousin, a grandson) that has the money and that will put the funeral in place. There is the incentive for this to happen because then this person will be respected by everyone once everyone will know that he/she was the one arranging the funeral. In the Ghanaian society, respect is the most important thing.

The family tries to promote the funeral as much as possible; even putting posters on the walls. This is the moment where everyone gathers; relatives who live in Accra or even out of the country come to the funeral. If by any change someone cannot go to the funeral he/she can send someone to represent him/her. This is an event for hundreds of people. The reason for this is again related to respect: the more people that go to a funeral, the more respect the person who died had in life. In the end that’s what it’s all about: respect.

Black is the formal color to use in a funeral for the ones who were friends and supporters; the family usually wears black and read. There is a lot of music, dancing, laughing and of course drinking. So much drinking that Edem said “tonight a little girl will get pregnant” because her parents will be too drunk to take care of them.

Food and drinks are served but not in an equal way: the “have’s” (the people who have money) are better served than the “have not’s” (people who have less money).

During these funerals there is a moment to make donations - there is usually a queue to make them. A funeral is one of the biggest forms of getting funds around here; thousands of cedis can be raised in a funeral.

At some point the body leaves the house where the funeral is being hosted and heads the place where the dead person was born and another event is hosted there. If by any chance the body cannot go there then someone will cut some of his/her nails, hair, eyebrows and pubic hairs. All this is then taken to the place where the person was born and then buried.


28/07/2012

My shorts


Today Edem took me for a walk in the community. We walked for 2 hours – I got to see how people actually live, what they do and how they interact with each other.

At a certain point we were going to a woman’s house to talk to her because she is participating in one of our projects. When we got there Edem asked for the woman to an old lady. The next thing I see is that she is speaking ewe and pointing at my legs with a very mad face. I could not understand what she was saying but I can tell I didn´t feel welcomed at all.

Edem told me afterwards that she was telling him to tell me that the next time I want to show up there I should wear pants and not shorts otherwise the children who are girls will want to use the same shorts. Edem explained me that usually old people still believe that if we don´t have our legs and harms covered then we are whores; it’s almost like I was naked for her.

As this happened a few minutes after we were talking to a younger woman (she should be on her thirties) and Edem told her about what had just happened. She started laughing. For this woman the old lady belief was already outdated.  


25/07/2012

My teacher


Edem is my teacher – he has been teaching me everything about Ghana, Ghanaians and how they live in the small communities.

Edem works at Care Net Ghana, the NGO I’m working at too. Like he says we (the volunteers) are smarter than them because we have the knowhow – we know how to structure projects, how to make proposals, etc. He has the local knowledge that we don´t have and that we so much need to build projects that can actually have an impact in the communities. Like he says, it’s team work and exchange of knowledge =)

Edem studied Electronic Engineering in a Polytechnic in Ho, the capital of The Volta Region. He had his first contact with a computer in 2004 and it happened because he had a friend who knew how to use one so he learnt from him.

Before he entered the Polytechnic he worked for a while and he actually participated in a project organized by Johns Hopkins University.

He is a compulsive reader with very strong ideas. He says that in order for Ghana to grow and develop they need to bet on children education because they are the ones who can change things; because the elders have extremely strong mindsets that cannot be changed anymore.

According to him there are two things Ghanaians need to change in order to grow.

One of them is confidence and initiative. He says Ghanaians learn from very early in their lives what he calls the “don´ts” but they don´t learn the “do’s”. This means that they always know what they should not do but not what they should do. So when someone tries to do something different he/she is usually convinced not to do so because “you shouldn´t do this or you shouldn´t do that”. People are supposed to follow and not “get out of the line”. If a young man tries to build his house in a different way from the one that has been used people around will say “we’ve been building it this way for years and years and now you think you’ll be the one doing it differently?!”. When someone thinks differently than that person is an outlier and people don´t want to hang out with him anymore; so that person becomes excluded so other people do not have the incentive to think different too because they know what will happen. Considering all of this it’s easy to understand there the spirit of initiative and critical thinking is not fostered.

The second thing he says is to “learn to give back to the communities”. Edem says that when people manage to get studies and to succeed in their careers their first destiny is Kotoka International Airport – they want to leave the country and they don´t want to give back to their communities. For example, a man who studies medicine and manages to become a Doctor will most probably not want to go back to his community and work there. The interesting thing is that this happens not only because they simply don´t want to go back but because the people in their communities don´t accept them anymore; they make vudu and they wish them bad things. Edem says that the key is in educating the children and by doing so in some years these children will be grown up and will accept the ones who studied and come back with innovative methodologies.


25/07/2012

Neighbors


These are the people I see every morning when I go to work:



They always shout “Yavô!! Yavô!! Byeee” – “yavô” means “white” in ewe which is the local language spoken in Hohoe; if it was in twi, which is the local language in Accra, they would call me “obruni”.


25/07/2012

President Milles


Today the President of the Republic of Ghana died due to a throat cancer.

President Milles was leading the country for almost four years and he was running for his second term and trying to win the elections that are going to happen in December 2012.

Although the President was constantly going to the US for checkups, before today most of the Ghanaians didn´t know what was the reason of the President´s illness once he had never officially presented it.

A couple of hours after I heard the news I went out to get some bread and I noticed that all the radios were turned on and people were listening to the news. When I got back home I talked to Anita (the cook) about the President:
-          So Anita, do you think he was a good President?
-          Oh yes of course! He was a Christian; he used to pray a lot for Ghanaians and for Ghana. He is a good man.

It was interesting to see that the reason for her to consider him a good President was not because of what he did but because he was Christian.

I also learnt from Edem (he works at the NGO that I work) that the President was a loved man for most of the people in living in the communities. He was actually called “Asomdwehene” where “asomdwe” means Peace and “hene” means King – so he was known as the “Peace King” because he was a very peaceful politician.


24/07/2012

My name is Aku!


Every person in Ghana has two names.

One of them is what we also have and that we simply call our “name”. Just like us this is the name that everyone calls them.

The second name is called the “domestic name”: that’s the name that is used at home with the family. This name depends on the day of the week that the person was born. So if the person was born on a Monday he/she would have a certain name; if it was on a Tuesday it would be another name. It also changes from female to male.

In case there is more than one person that was born in the same week day living in the same house then the older person ads “Gan” to the “domestic name” and the younger ads “V” – I don´t really know how to write it, but that’s how it sounds.

Considering that I was born on Wednesday and that I'm a female my name is Aku J


23/07/2012

Close to your heart


Today I’ve been close to your heart. I have to say that you didn’t´ make it easy:



It was really hot and humid! Details apart I found you charming, relaxing and pure. I guess you can be either silent:



or noisy:



It probably depends on your mood.

I could hear, see and feel your blood being pumped from your heart and running peacefully in your veins through the rest of you. I wonder if there is anything that stresses you and that takes you out of this easy going mood that both your nature and your people transmit…



I’m having a good time with you so far.



















22/07/2012

Monkey Sanctuarium




Incentives


Yesterday night before going to sleep me, Jenny and Sonia were talking and Jenny shared something she read somewhere.

Apparently orphanages here in Ghana are not working that well. Actually it’s more how well they are serving its purpose.

What happens is that orphanages have better living conditions that some families. This means that some kids end up going to there because their parents put them there because they know their kids will have a better life there than at home.

This must cause a lot of problems for society: kids end up not growing up with their families when they actually had that opportunity; management for the orphanages might be harder; kids who are actually orphans might end up not going there because they are full with kids that are not actually orphans – this is just me drawing conclusions out of this fact.

So this would only stop happening when the living conditions at home are at least as good as the living conditions in orphanages. At this point there are no more incentives for a mother to put her son in an orphanage. But for what I’ve understood there is a long way to go before they get to that point.

So some questions arise out of this situation: should they close the orphanages because it’s not serving who it’s supposed to be serving? That should not happen because real orphans would have no option. But then how can they maximize their efficiency – how to ensure that their resources are actually being invested in real orphans? How can they ensure that they actually receive only real orphans? How to get a proof that a kid is actually an orphan?


21/07/2012

Market


Fridays and Mondays are market days in Hohoe.

Today Margo took me to there and guided me around Hohoe. She is the US trainee to whom I wrote before I came here and helped me to make sure I brought the right things here.

As soon as we entered the market a woman who was selling fabrics came to us and asked us for a picture!




In and outside the marked kids call me and every white person obruni (white) and when we look at them they smile and wave.

At a certain point a man hold my hand and started a conversation:

-          Hey, what’s your name?
-          Constança
-          Ah Constance… ok. You’r from Spain?
-          Portugal.
-          Ah…! Are you married? Do you want to marry me?
-          Oh no… thank you – and I left.

I was told it’s going to happen a few more times…


20/07/2012

Hohoe


The most common transportation here is called tro-tro. It’s a van which can take around 20/25 people. It’s not like there are fixed hours for them to pass by; we just wait for them to pass on the street or we can go to a tro-tro station. In this case the tro-tro will leave as soon as it is full.


It toke me 4 hours in a tro-tro to get to know a bit more about you; this time Hohoe, in The Volta Region.
There are four other girls working also for Care Net Ghana, which is the NGO that I’ll be working for. Two of them are from The Netherlands; one from Norway and one from the US.

Living conditions are better here than back when I was in Madina, which I was not expecting! But I think it is because I’m staying at the NGO Director’s place; otherwise it wouldn´t be like this. I still sleep in a mattress but soon I think I’ll have a bed J The water is still cold but I don´t have to shower with a bucket anymore; which is good but I also liked the other version of shower. It tested my limits a bit more ;) We also have a cook here but I feel it’s a bit luxurious. Of course I appreciate the fact that they come up with it for us but if I want to get to know you then I must live a bit more like you I guess…


20/07/2012

Madina


I’m staying in Madina for these days, which is close to Accra.




In the other day I was walking and I hear the shy laugh of three kids on my back. They raised their hand for me. They were not begging… they wanted to touch my skin!


We buy our lunch at Mama Lit for 3,5 Ghana Cedis (1,45€).



I’m leaving today to Hohoe, in The Volta Region, which is where I’ll be working.



19/07/2012

Sofa



I’m living in a house with around 20 other people, most of them interns but also locals from the local office of AIESEC Legon. During the summer some of them live here with the interns.

There are four rooms, one toilet, one “bathroom”, one kitchen and a living room. Everyone is usually in the room doing all kinds of stuff - trying to access the internet, reading, listening to music, sleeping, talking, etc. It’s such a good environment that it took me more than 24 hours to realize that there is no sofa in the living room! There is one table and several mattresses where sit in J


18/07/2012

Shower!


Today I woke up and I hear the sound of water. Or I thought so! So I woke up happy because I was going to have my shower. I took my shampoo, conditioner and my towel and I headed the “bathroom”. But… there was no water, yet.

Some hours later there was a van(?) outside the house filling it in again with water so I managed to get my shower :D

It was very interesting because I was extremely happy for around 10min just because I had got a shower. I guess you’re teaching me that I should not take for granted everything I used to take and to value more the small things!



18/07/2012

I met you!


Yesterday I meet you for the first time!

As soon as I got off the plane humidity just took over me and my skin just got shiny and sticky; it didn´t feel that good at the time but now, after less than 24 hours, I’ve accepted it will be part of me (it doesn´t mean I got used to it already!). It’s interesting how fast we are “forced” to adapt and accept what will happen…

Yesterday I walked around for 3 hours and it’s just like I used to watch in the movies: there is red dust all over in the air. But it’s much more magical in real – the smell in the air keeps on changing; I can feel the air evolving me; my skin is so sticky that the dust just gets stuck on it. I had so much dust on my skin that I don´t think any mosquito would be able to bite me.

It’s very interesting how people drink water here! We buy 0,5 liter in plastic bags; then we tore one corner and we drink from there. It’s treated water and it’s 10 times cheaper than bottles of water!



To finish the day I was just feeling like having a shower. I was told that the water would be cold but that would be fine for me. So the time to take the shower came but there was not water coming out of the tap… and I was told that it can last for some days… so yeah…!

But it got better! Just 5min before I was going to bed I saw the biggest spider I’ve ever seen in my life! The interesting fact is that if it would have happened in Portugal I would be thinking for half an hour of how much I hated spiders and how disgusting they are. Here, something different happened – 5min after I saw it I was making a mental exercise of not hating them and of trying to perceive them as any other animal. After all, some day it might just appear in my bed…!

Casablanca


Today was the day!

When I was at the Lisbon airport I was scared; and for some moments I thought “what am I doing here? Why do I want to get to know you that much?!”

Ten minutes later those questions were gone and I was excited about visiting you!

So I headed the plain and then I thought again “what am I doing here?!” when I saw the size of the plane!



But then I met Mr. Carlos, who is Portuguese but lives in Morocco for some time now. He kept on telling me how his 5 years in Mozambique were the best in his life and how much he enjoyed it.




Then at the airport of Casablanca I met a Philippine who was 30 years old but looked like 20. He had two kids and had his first kid when he was 19; He separated from his wife, not divorced because the law in The Philippines didn´t allow it (as for what I understood). He kept on saying how much he wanted to go back to his wife, even though they didn´t speak to each other for 4 year now. It was very clear to see in a 1 hour conversation how different the values of some countries are.
Then he left… then he came back and said “I’ve nothing but a Philippine bill to give you so that you will remember me” J

 

To make the end of the day perfect, I just met a girl; one of yours! Actually she is from The Volta Region, the place where I’ll be! She told me how beautiful you are, but she told me also that I need to be careful because there are good and bad people.


I’m closer and closer of getting to know you!

The beginning


For six years I’ve been saying I would visit you some day but I’ve been postponing for some time now; everyone who knows me, knows it.


Today I have all my vaccines;

Today I have my visa;

Today I’m ready to fall in love with you… Ghana, the “Warrior King”.


See you very soon.